Slope & Grade
How to Grade a Yard: Slopes, Fill & Doing It by Hand
Grade a yard to fall 6 inches in the first 10 feet from the house (5%), then 1-2% beyond. String-line method, how much fill you need, hand grading vs. machine, and when to hire.
Grading is drainage you do with a rake instead of a trench, and it outranks every pipe-based fix: correctly shaped ground sheds most water before any drain is needed. The rules are few and numeric; the work is honest shoveling.
The target slopes
| Zone | Grade | Fall | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| First 10 ft at foundation | 5% | 6 in over 10 ft | Code-level standard; keeps roof and surface water off the basement |
| Open lawn | 1-2% | 1/8-1/4 in per ft | Sheds water invisibly, still mows flat |
| Swale centerline | 1-2% | continuous | Carries collected water along its length |
| Max mowable bank | 25-33% | 3:1 - 4:1 | Steeper wants groundcover or a wall |
Convert any of these to string-line measurements with the slope calculator.
Hand grading, step by step
- Map the water. After rain, note where it stands and where it should go: street, swale, rain garden, or a far lawn area. (If the problem might be subsurface, run the standing water diagnosis first so you do not regrade what a downspout caused.)
- Set the datum. Drive a stake at the foundation and mark existing grade. Drive a second stake 10 feet out. String between them, level the string, then drop the far end 6 inches: that is your 5% finished plane.
- Extend the lines. Repeat every 6-8 feet along the wall, and run longer strings across the lawn at 1-2% toward the discharge. The strings are the design; everything else is filling to them.
- Order material. Volume = area × average depth change ÷ 324 (or use the cubic yard calculator). Fill dirt for structure, topsoil for the top 4 inches; prices and truckload logic are in the delivery cost guide. Add 10-15% for compaction.
- Build in lifts. Spread fill 2-3 inches at a time, rake to the strings, and compact each lift with a hand tamper or plate compactor. Loose-dumped fill settles into next year's low spot.
- Finish and seed. Topsoil, rake smooth to the lines, roll lightly, seed or sod, and keep traffic off until rooted. Re-check the grade after the first big rain and top up any settlement.
Hand vs. machine vs. hire
A foundation strip or one low spot: hand work, a weekend, materials only. A quarter of the yard or 10+ yards of soil: rent a skid steer ($250-$400/day) if you have seat time, and remember 811 before any cutting. Whole-lot regrading, retaining walls, or changing how water leaves your property: hire it, and involve the town where permits or easements apply; rates are in the FAQ above and the excavation cost guide.
The mistakes
Grading with topsoil alone. It is spongy and settles; structure comes from compacted fill.
Burying the siding. Keep finished grade 6+ inches below siding and never above the slab or weep screed line; raise slopes by extending outward, not upward against the wall.
Creating a dam. A raised bed, walkway, or fence line across the flow path needs a gap, pipe, or swale through it, or your fix floods a new spot.
Eyeballing. 1% is invisible to the eye. String lines or a laser, always.
Sources & standards: quantities and factors in this guide follow the references documented in our methodology, including ACI 302/318 (concrete practice), OSHA 29 CFR 1926 Subpart P (excavation safety), ASTM aggregate designations, and the International Residential Code. Local codes, climate, and site conditions govern.
Frequently Asked Questions
What slope should a yard have?
5% away from the foundation for the first 10 feet (6 inches of fall), then 1-2% across open lawn toward a street, swale, or other legal discharge. Side yards between houses often carry a shared swale at 1-2% down the middle.
How much dirt do I need to regrade?
Area x average depth change / 324 = cubic yards. Raising a 10 x 30 ft strip an average of 3 inches takes about 2.8 yards of fill, ordered as 3-4 to cover compaction. Use fill dirt for the build-up and topsoil only as the top 4 inches.
Can I grade a yard by hand?
Small areas, yes: a strip along a foundation or a low spot up to a few hundred square feet is a weekend with a wheelbarrow, rake, and tamper. Whole-yard regrading moves tens of yards of soil and wants a skid steer or a contractor.
Should grading go toward a fence or property line?
No. Sending your water onto a neighbor's lot invites disputes and in many places is illegal. Grade toward your own swale, street gutter, or drainage easement, and check local stormwater rules before major regrading.
What does yard grading cost in 2026?
Professional grading runs $0.08 to $2.00 per square foot; typical residential regrading projects land between $770 and $3,000 plus any imported fill. DIY costs are mostly fill dirt at $5-$25 per yard delivered.